The S.A.E.'s and A.P.I.'s of motor oils are what you will see on a container of quality motor oil. Your Owner's Manual suggests or recommends what you need under which driving conditions. Generally the ranges of temperatures dictate the viscosity, which I assume most car owners think of as grade. "Grade" is actually a misnomer. Another word used is "weight" or "thickness".
Examples of some are 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, 15W-40, 5W-40 and 10W-30 to mention a few. Each of these are intended for a different range of temperatures. The numbers do a good job of suggesting which temperatures ranges for which they are best suited. The Owners Manual refers to these specifications. Generally the lower first number, the lower the temperature it will perform under its intended parameters. This is designated by the "W". The last number suggests the number of degree range to it summer time upper limits.
If these are not enough to think about, then I suggest using synthetic motor lubricants because not all oils are the same. Their performance is superior in any category or temperature range you want to throw at it. Petroleum based lubricants will vaporize, it's called volatility, more than synthetics. When have you checked your dipstick and noticed how much oil your engine has lost or used? That's what happens when the heat it is exposed to will boil off the oil. Synthetics have a significantly reduced volatility compared to petroleum based oils. This factor increases the creation of sludge because solids are the result.
If you live in the north or mid west, do an experiment by putting some new petroleum based oil in the deep freeze. After a couple of days, you will see what happens when your car is exposed to the mid winter freezing temperatures with this oil. I did this with Amsoil and found that used Amsoil remained fluid after being in the freezer's below zero temperature better than a new petroleum based motor oil.
Go to www.lubedealer.com/hiebert for details on how to obtain this superior product option.
